Pipeline session in the afternoon. So much to learn still. I was in the right mindset to surf Pipe and it sure was goiiiing off. Perfect conditions and rising 4-7 foot swell, packed out there though. Sat on Pipe side of reef for first 30 minutes and just watched the hustle go down almost getting in the way a couple times. I finally adjusted to Pipe mode and decided to paddle to the other side of the peak and just sit deep similar to my Waimea approach. I got my 3 waves over there near the 3rd and 4th house Waimea side of Jamie O'Brien's.
My first wave was sick. It was a left that lined up ruler edge style into the Pipe bowl. I dropped in and knew that if I slowed down enough, I could get a tube somewhere. I did a drawn out bottom turn and came back into the pocket and the end section threw over me for a solid quick high line fast tube. I came into it high and shot through ending low and a little off balance, almost thought I was going down, but I made it...yewwww!
Stoked! I paddled around the lineup and got back into position. Another chunky wave lined up across and I wanted it, but as I was dropping in I saw a body boarder last second already riding. I turned off and barely made it back out before the set unloaded! Close one.
My second wave was a freight train left going top to bottom. I committed and somebody was hooting. I barely made the drop and tucked under the lip without much speed. It was like slow-motion trying to get my balance and pull into the barrel. Luckily I made it under the lip and then got exploded in the barrel. I went back over the falls but it was cushiony and the reef was full of water when I came back over. I was a little shaken and went back out for one more.
I was shadowing Tamayo Perry to his inside and realized a strategy to sit deep and wait for the bombs to come through and then be deep enough that others won't drop in. This was working for me on the inside on the smaller ones. The last one that came was similar to the previous. A 6 footer that let me in nice and easy. I pumped once and setup for the barrel. From that moment on I knew it was going to be a massive closeout pit. So I got in there and was going mach speed, got some travel time and then jumped off. I was going so fast and the force of the crashing lip helped me penetrate right through the back of the wave. Yeah! I caught the white wash in and paraded up to the showers gleaming on the inside. After a session at Pipe, I am happy to walk away with a healthy body and an intact surf board, and the few barrels to marinate on in my memory bank is an awesome bonus.
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