Kayaking the Na Pali Coast

Day 1: July 21st, 2010

I headed off in a double kayak loaded with food, an assortment of liquids, and miscellaneous camp gear. I temporarily blew off my plan to sail around Oahu for a last minute trip to explore Kauai's infamous Na Pali Coast. My starting point was Anini on the Central North Shore of Kauai and then paddle and fish my way down to Kalalau. The first leg was about 15 miles. The conditions were beautiful; glassy with a chest-head high swell rolling in. I could see the intricacies of the coral below and watched the fish meander about. I loved the coastline, it was GREEN and alive. No massive slabs of concrete screeching into the sky. Green mountains filled the horizon.

It took me 3 1/2 hours to get past Hanalei Bay and finally to the edge of the Na Pali Coast. Slugger and I chugged along at a max of about 3 mph. You can infer how she got the name. The next photo serves as a good overview of the next 6 miles. 1000 foot seaside cliffs, waterfalls leading into caves, and solitude. These were some of the most amazing things I have ever seen.

The heaviest experience occurred when I paddled into the cave pictured here. First, I went through the waterfall and then it hit me, like the feeling you get standing on the edge of a cliff or the giddiness that fills your body after surfing a huge wave. My hands were almost shaking. I felt I was entering a very sacred place with heavy heavy mana. A very spiritual experience. Shocked and in awe, I surveyed the scene and breathed it all in.

Paddling ole Slugger was like towing a bucket behind the boat. But I pressed on, the cave experience rejuvenated my spirit and gave me strength. The wind was at my back and small wind chop was pumping along and bouncing into the cliff. This was annoying because the closer you got to the cliffs the bigger the waves. The next two hours were the most challenging of my trip. In an nutshell... Physically exhausted. Surrounded by beauty. Feeling queasy. Solitude. Damn boats flying by with their speedy motors. Hello Bird! Land! Land! Stop eat! Keep on keeping on!

It took me 7 hours to reach my final destination of Kalalau. As I rounded a corner thinking but mostly screaming in my head "Where is this Kalalau!" I saw it, large beach, small waterfall crashing down, people, and kayaks. I beached Slugger and began looking for a place to call home for the next 3 days.

I felt claustrophobic in more ways than one as I walked under the Hau Bush Canopy. Lots of people, lots of campers, weird. I found a spot and set up my hammock, ate a tad bit of peanuts and triscuits, watched the sunset, and fell into a sound sleep.



Day two adventures and more pictures coming soon...